
Khao Sok, Surat Thani
Khao Sok was nothing like the rest of our Thailand trip, and that’s exactly why it stood out.
Tucked away in the jungles of southern Thailand, this national park felt ancient and alive. We slept in a treetop bungalow, woke to monkeys scrambling over the rooftops, and took a longtail boat across the surreal waters of Cheow Lan Lake, surrounded by mist-covered cliffs and rainforest silence.
It wasn’t luxury, and it definitely wasn’t quiet… but it was unforgettable. The jungle felt raw and immersive, the kind of place that shakes you out of your comfort zone and makes you feel connected to something older, wilder, and strangely magical.
If you’re planning a Thailand itinerary and want a destination that offers remote beauty, wildlife encounters, and cinematic landscapes, Khao Sok National Park is a must. Just don’t forget your earplugs.

🧾 Quick look
🛏️ Stayed: Rock and Treehouse Resort
🐘 Tour: Cheow Lan Lake day tour
🍽️ Best meal: Chicken fried rice at Blackstone Café
☕ Tip: Don’t swim in the pool… the monkeys already did
📅 Weather: Hot and humid, with more overcast skies than other locations
👥 Crowd level: Quiet and serene
🚫 Warnings: Jungle noise at night is relentless — frogs, geckos, crickets, the lot
💡 Booking tip: Book accommodation via Booking.com, but bring cash to avoid card surcharges; Cheow Lan tour was easier and cheaper via GetYourGuide
✅ Would we return?: No — unforgettable, but a once-is-enough destination for us
✔️ Would suit you if… you’re a backpacker or a nature lover looking for wild, remote beauty
❌ Avoid if… you want luxury, nightlife, or anything remotely polished
Getting There
We departed Karma Resort with visions of a seamless transition into the jungle heart of Thailand. What followed was a full day of travel, not difficult, but undeniably long.
The total cost was ฿1,800 for two people (~£38, ~$49, ~€45). A minivan collected us from the resort and took us north to Nathon Pier, where we boarded the ferry bound for Donsak on the mainland. From there, another van met us for the drive inland, winding through the lush southern landscape toward Khao Sok National Park.
The journey unfolded without drama: no delays, no logistical surprises, and no chaotic ferry scenes this time. In fact, it was one of the more manageable multi-leg transfers of the trip. The final stretch into the park was a highlight in itself, as dense jungle, soaring limestone cliffs, and wide rivers began to frame the road.
No serious cautions to share, just bring water, snacks, and a little patience. The destination is worth every mile.

Where We Stayed
Tucked beneath towering limestone cliffs and thick jungle canopy, The Rock and Treehouse Resort has a wild, cinematic setting that’s undeniably atmospheric. Elevated walkways and treehouse-style villas make for a memorable arrival, and the air-conditioned rooms provide a solid base for exploring the surrounding national park.
The experience is rustic rather than refined. Our indoor shower leaked, and jungle noise, especially at night, made sleep a challenge for light sleepers. A central water feature hinted at hidden luxury but was rarely switched on, leaving the grounds feeling less serene than they could have been.
Breakfast was included and served on a raised platform with sweeping views across the treetops. While the food was basic, it was more than made up for by the morning monkey activity overhead, always entertaining with a coffee in hand.
Staff were friendly and helpful when approached, though interaction was limited. Travellers should note that credit card payments incur a surcharge, and ATMs in the area are few and far between, so bring cash.
Ideal for: budget-conscious travellers seeking an adventurous jungle base, rather than high-end comfort.
💡 Alternative Options
-
Our Jungle Camp – Eco Resort
A firm favourite among eco-conscious travellers, this riverside resort offers rustic bungalows and elevated treehouses immersed in the jungle. With an on-site organic restaurant, guided nature tours, and a back-to-basics charm, it’s ideal for those seeking nature without compromise.
From ฿1,200 per night (~£26, ~$31, ~€29)
-
Anurak Community Lodge
Winner of multiple sustainability awards, Anurak blends immersive jungle living with ethical travel. Set amid nature trails and limestone peaks, this lodge offers charming rooms with open-air showers and a strong focus on local community partnerships. Service is warm, and the serenity is unforgettable.
From ฿1,800 per night (~£38, ~$47, ~€44)
-
Khao Sok Tree House Resort
One of the quirkiest places to stay in the region, this canopy-style resort features unique treetop accommodations for families and couples alike. Expect jungle views, a laid-back vibe, and plenty of character, with a swimming pool to cool off after steamy afternoons on the trails.
From ฿1,500 per night (~£32, ~$39, ~€36)

What We Did
Khao Sok was intended as our serene jungle escape. And in many ways, it delivered, though “serene” might be generous. Dawn brought the clatter of monkeys staging rooftop heists, while the evenings erupted with a symphony of jungle life loud enough to rival a city street. Still, nestled among ancient rainforest and mist-covered cliffs, there was something undeniably magical about it.
Our first afternoon was spent wandering the village: a sleepy tangle of wooden walkways, small cafés, tour huts, and thick greenery spilling onto the road. There’s little in the way of conventional sightseeing, but the atmosphere, humid, quiet, and slightly surreal, was captivating in its own right.
Dinner on both evenings was at Blackstone Café, a humble roadside spot that delivered far more than expected. The chicken fried rice, in particular, was a standout: fresh, smoky, and full of depth. It was one of the best meals we had in Thailand. Unpretentious, satisfying, and served in a setting that felt like a true jungle hideaway.
The main event: a full-day adventure on Cheow Lan Lake, where longtail boats sliced through emerald water beneath towering karst cliffs, and the forest came alive with chicken bats and mischievous monkeys. It was one of the most exhilarating and visually arresting days of our entire trip, but that story deserves a section of its own.

Tours
Cheow Lan Lake Day Tour
This was no ordinary boat trip. Cheow Lan Lake delivered one of the most breathtaking and otherworldly days of our journey through Thailand.
The experience began at the pier, where we paid our national park entry and pier fees before boarding a private longtail boat. No tour groups. No schedule. Just the two of us, a guide, and a vast expanse of water stretching into the rainforest.
As the boat glided across the lake, time seemed to slow. The surface was glassy and still, flanked by mist-shrouded limestone cliffs that rose like sentinels from the water. The silence was profound, punctuated only by the gentle hum of the engine and the distant call of birds.
Our first stop was the Three Sisters: a trio of towering rock formations standing dramatically in the centre of the lake. Even in photographs they appear surreal, but nothing compares to seeing them emerge from the morning mist in person. Their scale, their symmetry, their solitude, it was spellbinding.
Next, we moored at a floating raft house, one of the iconic bungalow clusters suspended above the water. We chose not to swim due to the enforced life jacket policy, but the stillness was its own reward. We sat on the timber deck with cold Cokes and a packet of crisps, watching the jungle reflect on the water’s surface in quiet reverence. It was unplanned, unhurried, and perfect in its simplicity.
Earlier, we had been offered a cave trek. We declined, preferring to skip any encounters with snakes, spiders, or waist-deep water. No regrets.
Instead, our captain took us to a remote cove for a spontaneous swim. Here, the water was warmer, the surroundings quieter, and best of all, no life jackets were required. Slipping into the lake felt like entering liquid glass, so smooth and silent it barely seemed real.
Then came the finale.
As dusk approached, our boat idled near a cliffside where the forest canopy thickened. We waited. Suddenly, the sky burst into motion as thousands of bats emerged from the treetops, spiralling into the twilight in a frenetic, hypnotic cloud. Even our guide and captain reached for their phones, grinning as though they were witnessing it for the first time.
Locals refer to them as “chicken bats,” named for the rhythmic flapping sound that echoes across the water when they take flight. These are fruit bats, essential pollinators and seed-spreaders that sustain the rainforest’s delicate balance. Watching them rise into the sky felt both primal and cinematic.
On the return journey, we made one final stop at a mountain viewpoint. The sun had dropped low, casting golden light over hazy ridgelines and distant jungle peaks. It was a view that left us quiet. Not just from awe, but from the recognition that we had experienced something rare.
Something unforgettable.
💡 Quick Reference: Full-Day Island Tour
🚤 Tour Type: Half-day boat and jungle adventure
💰 Cost: ฿9,000 (approx. £210, $246, €227) total for two people, including transfers and lunch
📍 Location: Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok National Park
⏱️ Duration: Around 6 hours, including transfers
💬 Highlights: Scenic longtail cruise past towering limestone cliffs, floating bungalow stop, jungle walk, and a dusk display of thousands of “chicken bats”
⚠️ Tips: Bring motion sickness tablets, a waterproof dry bag, and a light layer — it can get breezy on the lake
🔗 Booked via: GetYourGuide
🧭 Verdict: 100% worth it — breathtaking, bizarre, and utterly unforgettable

Where We Ate
Blackstone Café
Tucked beside the main road in Khao Sok village, Blackstone Café is an unassuming gem that punches well above its weight. The setting is casual, wooden benches, jungle hum in the background, but the food speaks for itself. Their chicken fried rice was a standout, expertly cooked over high heat and bursting with authentic flavour. Cocktails, too, were far better than expected for such a modest venue. With fair pricing, unfussy service, and a genuinely relaxed vibe, it ranks among our favourite meals in Thailand.
Rock and Treehouse Resort (included breakfast)
While the breakfast spread here won’t win any awards for innovation, it ticks the right boxes: hearty eggs, toast, fresh tropical fruit, and robust coffee to fuel your jungle adventures. But the real highlight is the morning entertainment. As you sip your coffee, keep an eye on the rooftops, monkeys often stage chaotic dawn raids in full view of the open-air dining area. Breakfast with a side of wildlife drama.

What To Know Before You Go
Pack Earplugs
The jungle doesn't sleep. As night falls, a full symphony erupts, croaking frogs, chirping cicadas, dripping water, and the occasional scuffle between monkeys on the rooftops. It’s atmospheric, but it can also be loud.
Carry Cash
Even if you book online, some accommodations in Khao Sok still require payment in cash to avoid surcharges. It’s best to arrive with enough Thai baht to cover your stay, just in case card facilities are limited or carry fees.
Understand Your Tour
Cheow Lan Lake excursions vary widely. Some include guided jungle treks and cave visits, while others focus solely on lake cruising and scenic stops. Double-check the itinerary before booking to match your expectations.
Be Aware of Swimming Rules
Safety protocols differ across the lake. In some areas, life jackets are compulsory for swimming. In others, you may be free to take a dip unaided. Ask your guide in advance to avoid surprises.
Watch for Monkey Mischief
Morning meals often attract curious macaques, especially around open-air resorts. They’re bold, opportunistic, and quick to snatch unattended food. Keep your breakfast covered, and your camera within reach.

Final Thoughts
Khao Sok delivered everything we hoped for, and more.
It offered serenity without silence, beauty without polish, and a sense of wilderness that felt truly immersive. Cheow Lan Lake was a revelation: still and surreal, framed by mist-wrapped cliffs. The evening skies came alive with thousands of bats, and even the relentless jungle chorus became part of the magic.
Would we return? Probably not. But not because it fell short, quite the opposite. It gave us what we came for, completely. No unanswered questions. No lingering curiosity. Just a wild, vivid chapter in our travels that felt whole from the moment we left.
Gallery








