
Koh Samui, Surat Thani
By the time we reached Koh Samui, we were ready for a change of pace. After the jungle rains of Ao Nang and the bustle of Phuket’s beach towns, this island promised something a little different: boutique resorts, palm-fringed beaches, and the occasional pig wandering past your sun lounger.
It didn’t all go smoothly. Our ferry was packed with Full Moon Party survivors, the van transfer reeked of cigarettes, and the island’s polished façade sometimes felt more like a film set than a genuine slice of Thailand. But despite the heat, the crowds, and the odd wildlife mishap (more on the dog later), Samui surprised us.
From emotional moments with rescued elephants to a surreal afternoon spent rubbing pig bellies on a tropical beach, this part of the trip had some of the highest highs and a few sharp contrasts that left us questioning the line between curated luxury and authentic experience.
Here’s everything we saw, felt, and learned during our time on Thailand’s second-largest island.

🧾 Quick look
🛏️ Stayed: Karma Resort (฿62,500 (~£1,313, ~$1,640, ~€1,500) / 5 nights)
🐘 Tour: Full-day island tour incl. Samui Elephant Home (via GetYourGuide)
🥤 Best smoothie: Mango-coconut at Karma Resort
🐷 Best moment: Lauren becoming the pig whisperer on Koh Madsum
📅 Weather: Hot, mostly clear skies, some breeze
👥 Crowd level: Mixed — relaxing at the resort, hectic at tourist hotspots
🚫 Warnings: Be cautious of stray dogs at Wat Khao Chedi (วัดเขาเจดีย์), as some may be territorial. Avoid Na Muang if ethical elephant experiences matter to you, we saw chained elephants used for rides.
💡 Booking tip: Ask for a guide with fluent English if booking a private tour
✅ Would we return? Not to Karma — but yes, we’d return to Samui
✔️ Would suit you if… You love boutique luxury and poolside posing
❌ Avoid if… You want culture over curation, or hate Instagram aesthetics
Getting There
We arranged our transfer to Koh Samui through a local Ao Nang travel stand, one of many easy-to-book operators dotted throughout town. The total cost was ฿1,760 for two people (~£37, ~$48, ~€44) which covered hotel pickup, a shared minivan to the ferry terminal, a catamaran crossing to the island, and a final van transfer to our resort.
The minibus ran slightly behind schedule and was tightly packed, but the ride itself was straightforward. The real chaos began with the catamaran: overrun with Full Moon Party revellers in neon glow paint, the boat was loud, crowded, and stifling. Lauren headed for the sun-scorched upper deck in search of space. Steve, meanwhile, opted for a quieter retreat below, eventually resurfacing with tales of sitting on an upturned bucket beside the engine, surrounded by diesel fumes, not the most glamorous journey.
On arrival, the final van transfer to our hotel took around 30 minutes. With no air conditioning and a haze of post-party cigarette smoke, it was an endurance test rather than a comfortable ride. At last, we turned off the main road and followed a quiet gravel lane, arriving at Karma Resort, a peaceful, palm-lined oasis that immediately made the effort feel worth it.

Where We Stayed
Hidden down a quiet gravel track just off the main road, Karma Resort delivers luxury with a modern, Instagram-forward twist. The atmosphere is serene from the moment you arrive. While the reception area sits rather unceremoniously beside the car park, it quickly gives way to a space defined by whitewashed walls, sculpted greenery, and elegant water features. Cold towels, butterfly pea tea, and complimentary fresh fruit welcome guests on arrival.
A meandering path past koi ponds and lush tropical plants leads you through the grounds. At its heart, a sleek infinity pool fringed by cabanas and bean bags opens directly onto the beach. The on-site café leans into a bamboo-chic aesthetic, offering poolside drinks and light meals. Lunch on arrival looked more impressive than it tasted, but breakfasts were artfully presented and consistently satisfying. Smoothies and coffee were a particular highlight.
We stayed in a Superior King Room with a plunge pool. The villa was enormous, with a stylish minimalist design: whitewashed interiors, polished concrete finishes, a vast open-plan bathroom, and a sprawling terrace with views across the bay. The outdoor shower looked stunning but was largely avoided due to persistent mosquitoes.
Karma’s spa service was top-notch. We indulged in two massages, one deep tissue (aggressively effective), and one relaxing aromatherapy session that left us in a puddle of bliss. Live music events added an ambient touch to a few evenings without ever disturbing the resort’s tranquil mood.
The vibe: elegant, curated, and quiet, ideally suited to couples, honeymooners, and influencer types. There’s a distinctly polished feel that some may find a touch pretentious, but others will see as part of the luxury experience.
Karma is walkable to Fisherman’s Village, though the distance started to feel tedious after a few days. On the plus side, all of our private tours and transfers collected us directly from the resort’s entrance, adding convenience to the experience.
Would we stay again? Probably not. It was peaceful and posh, and the service was excellent, but it felt more like a set than a sanctuary. Beautiful, yes, but for our taste, a little too curated and a bit too expensive. Still, if you're after a stylish, secluded stay with beach access and a touch of glam, Karma absolutely delivers.
💡 Alternative Options
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Peace Resort Samui
Tucked along the tranquil sands of Bophut Beach, Peace Resort lives up to its name with laid-back beachfront bungalows and a soothing, tropical aesthetic. Surrounded by swaying palms and peaceful gardens, it offers a beachfront pool, attentive service, and relaxed charm without the fuss.
From ฿3,800 per night (~£81, ~$99, ~€92)
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Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa
A romantic sanctuary on the sands of Bophut, Zazen blends traditional Thai elegance with boutique luxury. Each villa is thoughtfully styled for privacy and comfort, while the resort’s renowned spa and restaurant elevate the experience to something truly special.
From ฿4,000 per night (~£85, ~$104, ~€96)
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Hansar Samui Resort & Spa
Located steps from the buzz of Fisherman’s Village, Hansar Samui fuses modern beachfront luxury with refined simplicity. Its expansive sea-view rooms, sleek infinity pool, and stylish dining venues make it a standout choice for travellers wanting upscale comfort with immediate access to local culture.
From ฿4,500 per night (~£96, ~$117, ~€109)

What We Did
Evenings in Bophut often saw us strolling the main road toward Fisherman’s Village. The Friday night market, in particular, was an overwhelming affair, packed with people, thick with humidity, and pulsing with energy. If you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere, opt for a quieter evening. The market now runs several nights a week, so check the current schedule before you go.
That said, there were moments of pure joy. One standout was a beachfront dinner with our toes in the sand, where the sound of waves replaced the buzz of traffic. Another was our accidental discovery of the CapyBARa Café, an unexpected gem tucked just off the main drag. Entry cost ฿800 (approximately £17, $22, or €21) per person and included a one-hour session spent feeding and cuddling a menagerie of capybaras, parakeets, rabbits, and other gentle creatures. It was surreal, heartwarming, and oddly therapeutic, easily one of the most memorable experiences of our time on the island.
As for the rest of Fisherman’s Village, again, it struck us as a bit too curated. Stylish boutiques and cocktail bars abound, but prices are high and the vibe leans more polished than authentic. Ideal for browsing and sipping, perhaps, but not a place we’d rush back to for serious shopping.

Tours
Full-Day Island Tour: Temples, Waterfalls & Elephants
Temple Etiquette in Thailand
When visiting temples in Thailand, it's important to show respect:
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Cover your shoulders and knees, both men and women.
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Remove your shoes before entering temple buildings.
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Women should never touch monks, hand items directly to them, or sit beside them.
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Speak quietly and avoid pointing your feet at statues or altars.
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Photography is often allowed but check for signs first.
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Be aware that some temples request donations to be placed in envelopes, as monks may avoid direct handling of money.
We booked a full-day private island tour via GetYourGuide, attracted by a varied itinerary that promised cultural landmarks, scenic views, and wildlife encounters. While the route delivered plenty of memorable moments, the experience was occasionally let down by communication gaps. Our guide spoke only limited English, which made it difficult to fully grasp the stories behind each site. Even so, the tour provided a fascinating window into Koh Samui’s layered identity, part spiritual sanctuary, part tropical circus.
Wat Bo Putaram (วัดบ่อผุดาราม)
Our first stop was Wat Bo Putaram, an active local temple that felt more lived-in than postcard-perfect. Children’s fairground rides sat quietly beneath the gaze of a towering Buddha statue perched on a boat-shaped platform. Leftover decorations from a recent festival lingered in the breeze. It was a surreal, slightly haunting space, still and silent, yet infused with traces of celebration. Without a clear explanation, the symbolism remained elusive, but the atmosphere was memorable.
Wat Plai Laem (วัดปลายแหลม)
Next came Wat Plai Laem, a sprawling lakeside complex alive with shimmering gold statues, ornate bridges, and peaceful koi ponds. The towering figure of Guanyin, the many-armed Chinese goddess of mercy, stood resplendent above the water, joined by the jovial Laughing Buddha nearby. The highlight, however, was a quiet moment of blessing from a monk. We knelt as he sprinkled water over us and tied sacred string around our wrists, a gesture that felt both intimate and profound.
Lad Ko Viewpoint
Lad Ko Viewpoint offered a sharp contrast: less spiritual serenity, more plumbing emergency. A burst water main sent jets of water onto nearby electrical cables, casting an accidental drama over an otherwise underwhelming vista. Not the island’s finest lookout.
Hin Ta & Hin Yai (Grandfather & Grandmother Rocks)
These famously suggestive rock formations raised a few smiles. The grandfather rock’s shape was unmistakable. The grandmother… less so. Our guide pointed out, with unsettling nonchalance, where a tourist had recently been swept out to sea. The photo opportunity felt secondary to that piece of information.
Guan Yu Shrine (ศาลเจ้ากวนอู)
Visually commanding, the Guan Yu Shrine featured a colossal red-bronze statue of the revered Chinese general, set against a peaceful courtyard. Guan Yu is worshipped in Chinese-Thai communities as a symbol of loyalty and strength. Unfortunately, with no context offered, we could only admire its scale rather than understand its significance.
Lunch Stop
Lunch was a pre-set affair at a nondescript hotel restaurant. No menu choice, but the meal was pleasant enough: grilled skewers, stir-fried rice, and a generous portion of chicken. It served its purpose without leaving much impression.
Wat Khunaram (วัดคุณาราม) – The Mummified Monk
This temple proved to be one of the most moving stops of the day. Housed in a quiet, dignified hall, the preserved body of Luang Pho Daeng, who predicted the date of his death in 1973, sits upright in a glass case, dressed in saffron robes and sunglasses. Despite the initial strangeness, the mood here was calm and reverent. It was a rare chance to witness the depth of Thai Buddhist belief and its approach to life, death, and legacy.
Na Muang Waterfall
Picturesque from afar, Na Muang Waterfall was less enjoyable up close. A public holiday had drawn large local crowds, making the area noisy and overcrowded. Worse still, nearby elephants were chained and being used for rides. The animals looked visibly distressed, a sobering, upsetting sight that left us shaken.
Samui Elephant Home
Thankfully, our next stop restored our spirits. Samui Elephant Home wasn’t a place we’d chosen ourselves, it came bundled with the tour, but it turned out to be one of the most meaningful experiences of the trip. Initially concerned by the sight of two elephants in pens, we were reassured by the guide: both animals had been rescued from abusive working conditions and were now in the early stages of recovery, slowly learning to trust humans again. We helped prepare their food, gently hand-fed them, and learned about their stories. The emotional weight of the experience hit hard. We cried. So did our guide. It was authentic, powerful, and unforgettable.
Wat Khao Chedi (วัดเขาเจดีย์)
Our final stop was Wat Khao Chedi, perched on a hilltop with sweeping views across the island and out towards Koh Madsum. Quiet and breezy, it offered a sense of closure, until a sudden lunge from a stray temple dog left Lauren with torn trousers and a nasty shock. Thankfully, there was no bite, but the incident was a stark reminder that while temple dogs are often calm and cared for, they can be unpredictable. Many are abandoned animals living under the informal protection of monks and locals. Visitors are advised to give them space and avoid making sudden movements or direct eye contact.
Tour Verdict:
The van was modern and comfortable, with air conditioning and cold drinks provided. The itinerary was comprehensive and varied. But the lack of detailed explanations from our guide meant we often left each site with more questions than answers. Moments of beauty and cultural richness were sometimes undercut by miscommunication or difficult scenes. If booking a similar tour, we highly recommend requesting a fluent English-speaking guide, and skipping any stops that involve captive animals in distress.
💡 Quick Reference: Full-Day Island Tour
🚐 Tour Type: Full-day private van tour
💰 Cost: £149.84 (approx. ฿7,134, $195, €177)
📍 Location: Island-wide, Koh Samui
⏱️ Duration: Approximately 8 hours
💬 Highlights: Scenic temples, jungle waterfalls, the mummified monk, and an emotional visit to an ethical elephant sanctuary
⚠️ Tips: Request an English-speaking guide in advance and avoid Na Muang if you’re concerned about animal welfare standards
🔗 Booked via: GetYourGuide
🧭 Verdict: A mixed experience — some deeply moving moments offset by disappointing stops and communication barriers

💡 Quick Reference: Koh Madsum (Pig Island)
🚤 Tour Type: Private longtail boat excursion
💰 Cost: ฿4,000 (approx. £85, $104, €96) total
📍 Location: Thong Krut Pier, Koh Samui
⏱️ Duration: Approximately 4 hours
💬 Highlights: Up-close interactions with the famously friendly pigs on Koh Madsum and a laid-back beach escape
⚠️ Tips: No food or drinks are provided, so bring your own snacks, water, and a towel
🔗 Booked via: Local agency in Bophut
🧭 Verdict: A surreal and joyful outing — totally worth it for the pig encounter alone
Tours
Koh Madsum (Pig Island) & Snorkelling at Koh Tan
This was one of the most surreal, and unexpectedly joyful, days of our entire journey through Thailand.
We arranged a private longtail boat tour through a local agency in Bophut, who coordinated hotel pickup and transfer to Thong Krut Pier on Koh Samui’s quieter southern coast. There, we met our cheerful captain and boarded a simple, open-air boat that was basic but comfortable. The short glide across calm waters to Koh Madsum set the tone for what felt more like a whimsical detour than a traditional tour.
Often referred to as Pig Island, Koh Madsum has a mixed reputation. But as soon as we stepped onto its soft, sandy shore, it was clear we had arrived somewhere special.
The island was compact, clean, and clearly maintained with care. And then came the stars of the show: dozens of free-roaming pigs, each with a personality. Some napped in the shade beneath coconut palms, others nosed through the sand, and a few casually wandered between beachgoers as if on patrol. They weren’t aggressive or overfed, just curious, relaxed, and totally unbothered by their celebrity status.
Lauren, a lifelong animal lover, was instantly smitten. Within minutes she was crouched in the sand, scratching ears and rubbing bellies, surrounded by blissed-out pigs flopping into the sand like toddlers at nap time. One by one, they leaned into her attention, oinking softly in approval. A nearby tourist quipped, “They trust you more than they trust the staff,” and it honestly felt true.
Feeding was gently discouraged, though we offered the occasional sip of water, which they eagerly lapped from bottles. While there were minor scuffles among them, the general vibe was peaceful and easy-going. There were no fences, no forced interactions, and no keepers hovering nearby. Just a natural rhythm of humans and pigs coexisting in a setting that felt charming rather than commercial.
After a couple of hours of pig-related joy, petting, laughing, photographing, we continued on to nearby Koh Tan for a snorkelling stop.
Unfortunately, this part of the excursion didn’t quite live up to expectations.
We spent around 20 minutes in the water just offshore. While visibility was decent, the underwater landscape was lacklustre. The coral was sparse and colourless, and marine life was limited to a few lone fish drifting through broken reef. It wasn’t unpleasant, but compared to Thailand’s best-known snorkelling spots, it was forgettable.
We had hoped to visit Koh Tao, renowned for its vibrant reefs and rich biodiversity, but time didn’t allow it. If snorkelling is a top priority, we’d recommend building Koh Tao into your itinerary separately.
The tour itself came with no food, drinks, or formal guide beyond the captain, who was friendly but mostly left us to our own devices. Still, for the price and privacy, it was more than fair value.
And while the snorkelling underwhelmed, the time spent with those quirky, mud-splattered pigs left a lasting impression. It was unexpected, unpolished, and totally unforgettable.

Where We Ate
Karma Resort Café
The on-site café at Karma Resort offers visually stunning breakfasts in a tranquil setting. Expect vibrant smoothie bowls, fresh tropical fruit, expertly brewed coffee, and eggs cooked to your preference. While the presentation is consistently Instagram-worthy, lunch leaned more toward style than substance during our visit—beautifully plated but lacking bold flavour.
Hotel and Restaurant Enjoy
Easily our standout beachfront dining experience in Fisherman’s Village. Set directly on the sand, this elegant yet laid-back restaurant delivers grilled seafood and cocktails against a backdrop of glowing sunsets and soft sea breezes. Slightly pricier than average, but well worth it for the ambience and exceptional views.
The Shack
An American-style grill house serving generous portions of burgers and steaks—perfect when you’re craving something hearty after a day of island-hopping. The atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious, the staff are warm and welcoming, and the flavours are robust. A dependable choice for a casual, filling dinner.
Local Street Food Stalls
Just a short stroll from the resort, you’ll find an assortment of roadside vendors selling Thai classics like mango sticky rice, chargrilled chicken skewers, and fresh roti. The prices are low, the turnover is fast, and the flavours often outshine more formal eateries. Ideal for a quick bite that feels truly local.

What To Know Before You Go
Tourist Zones Mean Tourist Prices
Fisherman’s Village may be atmospheric and photogenic, but prices tend to reflect its popularity. Meals, cocktails, and souvenirs often come at a premium compared to less touristy parts of Thailand. Worth visiting, but budget accordingly.
Language Gaps on Private Tours
If booking a private day tour, it’s worth confirming that your guide is fluent in English. Our guide was friendly and well-intentioned, but limited communication made several cultural stops feel more like photo ops than meaningful experiences.
Prepare for the Mosquito Mafia
Bophut’s tropical setting comes with persistent mosquitoes, especially in the evenings. We skipped using our villa’s outdoor shower and relied heavily on strong DEET-based repellent. Bring your own and reapply regularly.
Avoid Na Muang Elephant Park
Despite its popularity, Na Muang continues to offer elephant rides and visibly keeps animals in chains. The experience left us distressed. If responsible animal tourism is a priority, give this site a wide berth.
Temple Dog Awareness
At Wat Khao Chedi, a stray dog lunged and tore through trousers with little provocation. While most temple dogs are docile and cared for by monks or locals, they can be territorial. Stay alert, especially in quiet or remote temple grounds, and give animals space.

Final Thoughts
Koh Samui offered a little bit of everything: boutique luxury, unpredictable chaos, emotional highs, and unexpected animal encounters. Our resort stay was stylish and serene, though ultimately not quite aligned with our tastes. The island tour mixed deeply moving experiences with moments that felt uncomfortable or disjointed. But then came Pig Island, which delivered pure, unfiltered joy.
Samui wasn’t flawless. Yet it gifted us some of the trip’s most vivid, heartfelt memories, and for that, we’ll always be glad we went.
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