Wild Camping on Peanmeanach Beach: Beauty, Blisters, and a Battered Heart

When the itch for adventure calls, sometimes you answer it by throwing on a heavy pack, trekking into the wild, and setting up camp on a remote beach in the Highlands.

That’s exactly what we did on this epic overnight hike to Peanmeanach Beach on the Ardnish Peninsula, a trip filled with laughter, mud, wild views, and a lot more hill than either of us remembered signing up for.

Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out the full vlog here:

Hiking to Scotland’s Most Remote Beach | Wild Camping at Peanmeanach on the Ardnish Peninsula

The Journey Begins

After a long drive through Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, and past Glenfinnan, we parked up somewhere between Glenfinnan and Mallaig. With bags packed and spirits high, we set off on what we thought would be a short but steep hike. It had been years since we’d last done a proper wild camp, so of course we eased ourselves back in with a completely unnecessary challenge. Logical.

As always, Lauren powered ahead at warp speed while Steve trudged along behind, trousers slowly being pulled down by his backpack and muttering something about insurance pay-outs. The first climb hit hard, boggy, steep, and immediately humbling. And we weren’t even halfway yet.

Hiking to Nowhere (But With a View)

The trail offered everything you want from the Highlands: mossy woodlands, sweeping coastal views, sketchy wooden bridges, and the feeling that one wrong step might land you face-first in a bog. At one point, we spotted a runner effortlessly sprinting past us, which was both inspirational and incredibly annoying.

Lauren by Loch Doire a'Ghearrain

By the time we reached the final ridge, the bay came into view, along with the ruins of the old village near Peanmeanach Beach, our home for the night. Ruined bothies, dramatic coastline, and complete silence. It was worth every aching muscle.

Camp Life (With Cheese and Cold Toes)

We picked a spot just above the beach with a bench and a view, then set up our tiny tent, the east wing and west wing, as Steve proudly described it. We had visitors briefly, but most of the night it was just us, the stars, and the wind. And did we mention it was cold? Like, shivering-through-your-sleeping-bag cold. Turns out May camping on the west coast isn’t for the faint of heart.

Our MSR tent on Peanmeanach Beach

Still, morning brought clearer skies and the promise of a hot brew. The Alpkit stove fired up quickly (probably faster than our kettle at home), and we explored the nearby ruins and smaller bays while nursing our frozen fingers.

The Hike Back and a Heartfelt Moment

Leaving was hard. Not just emotionally, but physically. The hike back started well but quickly became a challenge. Steve was moving slower than usual, struggling with energy levels, and needed frequent breaks.

That’s when we decided to talk about something we don’t usually mention: Steve lives with a heart condition called atrial fibrillation (AF), which causes episodes of irregular and often rapid heartbeat. These can strike without warning and leave him completely drained. During this trip, an episode hit overnight. No phone signal, no easy exit, just us and the wild.

It passed by morning, quicker than usual, but the aftermath lingered, exhaustion, weakness, and a sense of vulnerability that made each step feel ten times harder.

We debated whether to include this in the video and blog. But the truth is, not all adventures are picture perfect. Some are gritty, messy, and take a toll. And if this helps even one person with a similar condition realise that these experiences are still possible, that they don’t have to stop exploring, then it’s absolutely worth sharing.

Back to the Car (Eventually)

The return journey was slow but steady. Views of Skye and the surrounding hills helped distract us from aching joints and rumbling stomachs. We saw frogs, toads, and even passed a few more hardy hikers heading out as we staggered back in.

Eventually, we made it to the car, peeled off our boots, and breathed that familiar sigh of relief.

It wasn’t an easy trip, but it was an unforgettable one. Peanmeanach Beach gave us wild views, wilder hair, and a quiet reminder that sometimes, the toughest journeys bring the greatest rewards.

Thanks for reading. If you enjoyed the blog, check out the video from this adventure and consider subscribing for more of our chaotic, heartfelt travels across Scotland and beyond.