Wrong Turns and Wild Swims: A Very Scottish Day Out
- Steve Jenkins
- May 23
- 3 min read
Updated: Jul 7
It all started so innocently. Sunshine, a coastal market, some charming Italian fishermen selling freshly caught seafood and homemade focaccia. What could possibly go wrong?
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Starting in Inveraray — Sunshine, Seafood & Italian Charm
Our Highlands weekend began in one of our favourite west coast towns: Inveraray. The sun was out, the market was buzzing, and we found ourselves chatting to two Italian fishermen selling fresh seafood and homemade focaccia straight from Loch Fyne. We sampled some, of course, garlicky, fresh, absolutely delicious. They’d traded the hustle of Italian cities for life on a Scottish loch, and honestly, we could see the appeal.
After a wander along the waterfront (and fending off an overly interested seagull that was dangerously eyeing up Lauren’s panini), we hit the road for our first proper walk of the trip.
The “Short” Hike at Ardcastle — How Hard Could It Be?
Our plan was to follow a route described as a “short, mostly flat hike” to a scenic viewpoint near Ardcastle. That optimism quickly dissolved when we spotted a sign warning of fallen trees and a suggested diversion. Naturally, we ignored it.
Five minutes later, we found ourselves climbing over two massive tree trunks that had fallen across the trail, spanning a steep ten-foot drop. With questionable footing, a bit of luck, and more than a few scratches, we somehow made it across, but not without wondering why we hadn't just followed the diversion in the first place.
Eventually, we made it to the water, a quiet little area perfect for a wild swim. The water was absolutely freezing, but after some hesitation (and a lot of squealing), we both went in. “Invigorating” is one word for it. “Borderline hypothermia” is another.
Warming Up in Arrochar
After the shock of the swim, we checked into The Arrochar Hotel, a simple but scenic spot with great views of The Cobbler. We ended the day with a well-earned pint at The Village Inn, basking in the evening sun and letting our limbs recover from the unexpected tree gymnastics.
Day Two — Change of Plans
We’d originally planned to explore Puck’s Glen on our second day, but Storm Arwen had left it closed to the public. So, we turned to our trusty Wild Guide Scotland book and found a new target: Lettermay Burn.
The book’s directions, however, left something to be desired. What started as a straightforward walk turned into another maze of confusing paths, diverging tracks, and frustratingly vague instructions. After a couple of wrong turns (and one steep, sweaty hill we absolutely didn’t need to climb), we finally stumbled on the waterfalls and pools we’d been searching for all along.
And they were beautiful. Hidden cascades, moss-covered rocks, crystal-clear water — the kind of place you’d never believe was so close to the road if you hadn’t just bushwhacked your way there for two hours.
Final Thoughts — Worth the Detour?
Despite the diversions, wrong turns, and questionable decision-making, this wild Highlands weekend gave us everything we love: unexpected conversations, stunning views, freezing swims, and a few hilarious mishaps to look back on.
Would we do it the same way again? Maybe with better navigation.
But would we do it again? Absolutely.
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