A Day in Haunted Edinburgh: Ghosts, Plague Pits and Poltergeists

Edinburgh is beautiful. Majestic skyline, cobbled streets, bagpipes echoing through wynds and closes. But beneath the postcard charm lies something far darker. You can feel it in the shadows, in the gravestones, in the silent corners of old stone buildings.

We decided to embrace that side of the city and dive headfirst into the mystery, history and horror of Scotland’s capital. This is part one of our three-part Edinburgh adventure, and it’s packed with haunted graveyards, forgotten plagues, body snatchers, and the kind of ghost stories that make your skin crawl.

Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out the full vlog here:

Edinburgh Travel Vlog Part 1 | Hidden History, Surgeon’s Hall & Greyfriars Kirkyard

Surgeons' Hall Museum: Gross Anatomy and Zero Cameras Allowed

We kicked things off with a visit to the Surgeons' Hall Museum, one of the oldest medical museums in the world. It was founded in 1852 and is supposed to be haunted, which made it the perfect place to start.

Unfortunately, due to the presence of human remains, we weren’t allowed to film anything inside. Bit of a blow, as we were hoping to share the gory tales of Burke and Hare there. Still, it’s well worth visiting if you’re in the city. Creepy jars, preserved organs, and enough Victorian surgical instruments to make your toes curl.

With no footage to show, we did the only sensible thing. Coffee break.

Not the Harry Potter Café

We ducked into Black Medicine Coffee Co. on Nicolson Street, a local favourite that’s been serving up great coffee since the late '90s. The name comes from the idea that coffee was once known as “black medicine,” which feels pretty fitting when you’re running on very little sleep and a lot of sightseeing.

Inside, it’s all moody lighting, exposed stone, and solid wooden tables, a perfect blend of cosy and slightly mysterious. The kind of place where you could easily imagine a struggling writer penning the next great fantasy series... except, as the signs proudly tell you, Harry Potter was not written here. They make that very clear.

What was written here, though, were a couple of excellent coffee orders and a new appreciation for their cinnamon swirls. The service was quick, the crowd a mix of students and locals, and the vibe? Unpretentious and quietly cool.

If you’re looking for a solid coffee stop in Edinburgh without the tourist queues or flying broomsticks, Black Medicine is a winner.

Sufficiently caffeinated and mildly confused, we moved on.

A Glimpse of Witch Trials at the National Museum of Scotland

We didn’t have loads of time at the National Museum of Scotland, but one exhibit really stood out. The section on the Scottish witch trials was sobering and powerful.

Between the 16th and 18th centuries, thousands of people, mostly women, were accused of witchcraft across Scotland. The hysteria was fuelled by fear, religious zealotry, and one very paranoid king. In 1590, King James VI presided over the North Berwick witch trials after a stormy sea voyage convinced him that witches were to blame. Over 70 people were caught up in that case alone.

In total, an estimated 3,000 to 4,000 people were executed across the country. Many were strangled and burned right on the Esplanade beside Edinburgh Castle. A brutal chapter in history, and one that still casts a long shadow.

Greyfriars Kirkyard: Ghosts, Graves and Poltergeist Territory

We wandered into Greyfriars Kirkyard, one of the most famous and most haunted graveyards in Edinburgh. Established in the 16th century, it’s home to mass graves of plague victims, haunted mausoleums, and tales of ghostly attacks.

This is where things start to get properly eerie. The Mackenzie Poltergeist is said to be one of the most violent spirits in the world, allegedly scratching, pushing, and even fainting unsuspecting visitors who stray too close to his tomb.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the graveyard also became a prime target for body snatchers, or “resurrection men,” who dug up freshly buried corpses to sell to medical schools. Families installed cages and stone slabs over graves to try and stop them. Even in death, there was no peace.

We learned that thousands of plague victims lie buried just inches beneath the grass. You’d never know it from the surface, but there’s a mass of skeletons underfoot. It’s the sort of fact that sticks with you as you walk across the turf.

The Summer of 1645: Plague, Death and Desperation

One of the darkest times in Edinburgh’s history was the plague outbreak of 1645. With rats and fleas spreading the disease through the overcrowded city, thousands perished. By the worst of it, only 60 men remained to defend the city.

Greyfriars became a burial ground for many of the victims, with bodies dumped in mass graves. The city vaults were used too, dark, damp, and terrifying spaces now said to be haunted by those whose deaths went unmarked and unremembered.

The white sheets hung from windows were a sign of infection, a desperate plea for help from plague doctors who could offer little more than prayers and poultices. It was a time of chaos, loss, and fear that still clings to the stones of the city.

Covenanters’ Prison: Locked Doors and Lingering Spirits

Tucked behind Greyfriars lies the Covenanters’ Prison, usually locked unless you’re on a ghost tour. By some miracle, the gates were open and we got to explore the infamous space for ourselves.

In the 17th century, this prison held Scottish Presbyterians who defied the crown’s interference in church affairs. After their defeat in battle, hundreds were crammed into the makeshift prison, kept in horrific conditions behind barred gates and stone walls.

This section is considered one of the most haunted spots in Edinburgh. People have reported being scratched, feeling sick, fainting, or even collapsing entirely while standing in certain corners of the prison yard. We felt mostly cold and curious, but maybe the ghosts just didn’t fancy us.

Bloody Mackenzie’s Tomb: Edinburgh’s Most Infamous Haunting

A short walk from the prison sits the tomb of George “Bloody” Mackenzie. He was the man responsible for persecuting the Covenanters in life, and now in death, he’s said to be the source of all that poltergeist activity.

Ironically buried among his victims, his mausoleum has been blamed for countless unexplained injuries and paranormal events. People have fainted near it. Some have left bleeding. Lauren sat on the steps outside for a bit. Nothing happened. But still, risky.

What’s Next in Part Two

In the next episode, we’ll take a walk down the colourful curves of Victoria Street, rumoured to be the real-life inspiration for Diagon Alley. We’ll also revisit Burke and Hare, the notorious body snatchers turned murderers, and head up to the famous Edinburgh Castle before making our way down the Royal Mile.

Thanks for reading, and we’ll see you in Part Two of our Edinburgh adventure.