Edinburgh’s Darker Side: Body Snatchers, Ghost Pipers and the Royal Mile

Have you ever wondered what shadows linger in the ancient streets of Edinburgh, where cobblestones whisper secrets and every turn seems to echo with the past? Welcome to Part Two of our Edinburgh series, where we dive even deeper into the city’s darker history.

In Part One, we visited the Surgeons’ Hall Museum, explored the witch trial exhibits at the National Museum of Scotland, and wandered through the haunted Greyfriars Kirkyard. This time, we’re following in the footsteps of body snatchers, wandering down Diagon Alley’s real-life inspiration, and exploring one of the most haunted castles in the world.

Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out the full vlog here:

Edinburgh Travel Vlog Part 2 | Victoria Street, Grassmarket & Castle Views on the Royal Mile

Victoria Street: Magic, Murder and the Ghost of West Bow

Leaving Greyfriars behind, we made our way uphill toward Victoria Street. On the way, we passed the famous Elephant House Café, where J.K. Rowling is said to have written early chapters of Harry Potter. Though the café was damaged by fire in 2021 and is currently being restored, it remains a pilgrimage site for fans of the wizarding world.

It’s easy to see the magic. From the windows, you can glimpse Edinburgh Castle looming above, and the winding path of Victoria Street below feels like it could genuinely lead to Ollivanders. Brightly coloured shops curve down the hill, stacked in tiers, filled with oddities and charm.

But this beautiful street has a dark history too. Built in the 1830s, Victoria Street replaced the West Bow, a notorious part of town once home to criminals, witch hunters and accused sorcerers. One of the most infamous residents was Major Thomas Weir, a respected preacher who confessed to sorcery in 1670 and was executed shortly after. The ghosts of that older street are still here, just hidden beneath the cobbles.

The Grassmarket: Gallows and Ghosts

At the foot of Victoria Street, you spill out into the Grassmarket, now a lively square filled with pubs, shops and restaurants. But this open space was once one of the most infamous execution sites in Scotland. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, thousands gathered here to watch hangings.

Condemned prisoners were led from the old Tolbooth prison to the gallows, right here in the square. Many of them were political prisoners or religious martyrs, including members of the Covenanters. It’s said their cries echoed through the city’s closes long after the ropes fell silent.

We stopped at The Last Drop pub, which gets its name not from whisky, but from the last drop of the noose. Legend has it that condemned prisoners were given one final drink here before facing execution. The pub is also rumoured to be haunted, with tales of flying glasses and ghostly visitors. It’s a strange feeling, sitting there with a pint, wondering who else sat in that same spot for a very different kind of farewell.

Burke and Hare: Edinburgh’s Most Notorious Killers

No dive into Edinburgh’s dark history is complete without Burke and Hare. These two Irish immigrants began as body snatchers but soon realised there was more money in murder. Between 1827 and 1828, they killed at least 16 people, mostly vulnerable individuals, and sold the bodies to Dr Robert Knox for dissection.

Their method, known as “burking,” involved suffocating victims to avoid leaving marks. The horror of their crimes led to national outrage and eventually resulted in the Anatomy Act of 1832, which changed how medical schools obtained bodies for study.

The Grassmarket was part of their story too. This was a city where science and death danced a very close line, and Burke and Hare blurred that line in the worst way imaginable.

Edinburgh Castle: Ghosts on the Battlements

You can’t explore Edinburgh without confronting the looming presence of the castle. Perched high on Castle Rock, it watches over the city like a guardian, or perhaps a judge.

Walking up toward the castle, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history. The fortress has stood here for over a thousand years. It has seen battles, sieges, royal births and brutal executions. The dungeons beneath the castle once held prisoners of war, political dissidents, and even suspected witches.

Conditions were grim. The walls were damp, the cells cold and airless. Many died down there, and some are said to remain. One of the most famous ghost stories involves a piper who was sent into the tunnels beneath the castle to map them out. He played his pipes as he walked so those above could track his route. Then the music stopped. He was never seen again. Some visitors say they can still hear the faint sound of bagpipes echoing underground.

The castle’s history is soaked in blood and sorrow, and whether or not you believe in ghosts, you can’t deny the atmosphere.

The Royal Mile: Tragedy Beneath the Beauty

From the castle gates, we began our descent down the Royal Mile, that famous stretch of historic road connecting Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

It’s a place full of charm. Buskers perform on the cobbles. Tourists weave through closes and alleys. But if you listen closely, the street has its own dark rhythm.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, this very road was used for public executions. Prisoners were paraded past the watching crowds, often heading toward gallows just outside the castle. The old Tolbooth prison once stood nearby, notorious for its brutal conditions. The screams of the condemned and the clatter of horse-drawn carts must have filled the air.

Beneath the Royal Mile is another world entirely. The South Bridge vaults, once used to house the city’s poorest citizens, became breeding grounds for crime and disease. Dark, damp and dangerous, the vaults gained a fearsome reputation, with stories of murder, disappearances and ghostly sightings. We’ll be visiting them ourselves in Part Three, if we’re brave enough.

A Whispering City

It’s easy to be swept up by the beauty of Edinburgh, but just below the surface is a rich, terrifying, fascinating history. Every alley has a story. Every stone has heard something it would rather forget.

As we made our way off the Royal Mile in search of coffee and cake, we felt like we had barely scratched the surface. This is a city that invites curiosity and rewards those who look a little deeper. A place where the past doesn’t just sit in museums but lives and breathes around you.

What’s Coming in Part Three

In the final part of this series, we descend into the haunted South Bridge Vaults for a proper ghost tour. Then it’s off to our favourite Mexican restaurant for a well-earned meal before we head home, having well and truly ticked off the darker side of Edinburgh from our bucket list.

Thanks for reading. We’ll see you in Part Three.