Shadows of Edinburgh: Vaults, Ghosts and One Last Meal
- Steve Jenkins
- Nov 1, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 3
As day turned to dusk, the atmosphere in Edinburgh seemed to shift. The light faded. The shadows deepened. It felt like the perfect time to go underground.
This was our final day in the city, and we had one last adventure planned. After exploring castles, graveyards, and gallows in the first two episodes, it was time to face something even darker. We booked ourselves onto a ghost tour with Mercat Tours and prepared to descend into the infamous South Bridge Vaults.
Before we got there, though, we had a few more stories to uncover.
Prefer to watch instead of read? Check out the full vlog here:
Ghosts on the Royal Mile: The Double Life of Deacon Brodie
As we continued down the lower Royal Mile, we passed the spot where Deacon William Brodie’s double life finally came undone. By day, Brodie was a respected cabinet maker and member of Edinburgh’s elite. By night, he was a thief, using his locksmithing skills to break into homes and businesses. It was a neat little side hustle that funded his gambling habit, until he got caught in 1788.
He was imprisoned and ultimately executed at the Tolbooth Prison, not far from where he committed many of his crimes. In a grim twist, he was hanged on a gallows he had helped design himself. Some say his spirit still wanders the Royal Mile, slipping between the closes in silence.
Cobble Stones and Cold Spots on Cockburn Street
We ducked off the Royal Mile and wound our way down Cockburn Street. It’s one of our favourite streets in Edinburgh, full of charm and character, and just that little bit less touristy than Victoria Street. But behind its beauty, there’s a past soaked in fear.
Back in the day, this was a place of dark alleyways and cramped tenements. Criminals used it as a hiding place, and one of its most chilling legends is that of the Faceless Man. According to local lore, a hooded figure with no face wanders the street after dark. Some believe he was captured and executed, and now walks the street as a warning. People report the feeling of being watched, only to turn and find no one there.
Just a nice thought as you walk past for an evening pint.
Into the Vaults: Mercat Tours and Edinburgh’s Underworld
We made our way to the Mercat Cross for the start of our tour, passing an oddly confident pigeon and a few confused tourists along the way. Once gathered, we met with our guide from Mercat Tours, were fitted with headsets, and led down into the South Bridge Vaults.
Built in 1788, the vaults were meant to store goods and tools for merchants. But as fortunes shifted, the vaults fell into disrepair and were eventually abandoned. That’s when things got darker. The vaults became a refuge for the poor, the desperate, and the criminal underworld. They were damp, filthy, and filled with suffering. And they never really let go of that energy.
Our guide shared stories of ghost sightings and mysterious happenings. The Watcher is one of the most feared spirits down there. He doesn’t show himself, but makes his presence known with sudden chills, whispers in the dark, or a crushing sense of dread. Some think he was a caretaker in life, now guarding the vaults in death.
Then there’s the Cobbler, a gentler spirit thought to be the ghost of a man who once worked down there. He’s said to appear as a hazy figure, still going about his daily tasks, fixing shoes in the shadows.
As we moved through the chambers, the air grew colder, the silence heavier. It’s easy to see how people believe this place is haunted. It feels alive, somehow. Like something is always just out of view.
Later, while editing our footage, we found a strange sound on one of the clips. Something unexplained. We’ll let you judge for yourself.
Tacos and Closure
After coming back up into the night air, we were starving. Cold, spooked, and needing comfort food, we headed to our favourite Mexican restaurant in the city. Huge burritos and loaded fries. It hit the spot. Hard.
It felt like the perfect way to end the day. A little warmth after all the shadows. A bit of tequila to chase away any ghosts.
Final Thoughts
Edinburgh has a magic to it, but also a melancholy. It’s a city of beauty built on tragedy, where the past never feels far away. The more we explored, the more we realised how tightly woven history and myth really are here.
We laughed, we climbed a lot of steps, we got a bit freaked out in the vaults, and we fell a little more in love with this incredible city.
Thanks for joining us on this journey. If you haven’t yet, go check out Parts One and Two, where we dig into witch trials, plague pits, haunted graveyards and body snatchers. And don’t forget to subscribe to the Bucket List Bound YouTube channel for more adventures from around the globe.
Until next time, stay curious. And maybe keep a light on.
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